Learning Journey // Ahmedabad (Part 1)

Connecting with India: My Learning Journey
(This is a report on the 8-day Learning Journey to Ahmedabad and Bhuj to discover a different side of India, of humanity and of myself) 15 - 22 September 2007

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As the plane door swings open, that ever so familiar warm dusty air devours my British-born body. As we alight the classic Air India plane, Sardar Vallabhbhai Patel Airport welcomes me and my brother, Amal, to Ahmedabad, the once capital of Gujarat.

We are about to join a group of 9 other participants from the UK who have also been selected for this once in a lifetime opportunity – the “Learning Journey” – aptly named by Connect India, a UK based organisation. A girl dressed in a simple Indian top approaches us, we recognise her instantly from our Orientation from a month ago – it was Pooja Warier (part of Connect India and UnLtd India). She had come to collects us from the airport to take us to Sugadh, where we would be based for the first half of the journey.


Day 1

Environmental Sanitation Institute (Sugadh) – a toilet museum and our home
Awaking after limited sleep due to a combination of heat, jetlag and excitement, we leave our simple and clean rooms at the Environmental Sanitation Institute (Sugadh) (“ESI”) to walk out on to the white marble veranda over-looking a beautiful landscape garden.

We begin the orientation by playing games that make us look quite ridiculous – which had the desired effect of breaking the ice quickly, before we sit in a circle on the marble floor to discuss introductions and objectives.

Jayesh Patel, a dynamic social worker wedded to Gandhian philosophy and one of the founders of Manav Sadhna arrives to speak with us. He provides a warm welcome to the Institute, then explains that 80% of disease is water borne and therefore preventable by clean sanitation. This simple reason was what led his father to set up the Environmental Sanitation Institute, or ESI. Jayesh and his father Ishwerbhai Patel had designed preventative methods through the introduction of low cost sustainable toilets for the poor, combined with personal hygiene training to combat waterborne disease. ‘Jayeshbhai’, as he was more affectionately called, also introduced us to his approach to selfless service by seeing God in nature.


Drishti – an NGO with a vision
After a hearty traditional lunch, we set off in Jeeps to Drishti (meaning ‘vision’), an NGO with a difference. Drishti believes in building capabilities of NGOs and communities by using various forms of media, a process through which they are empowering the underprivileged to communicate their stories in the public domain.

Energetic, bubbly and someone who clearly loves communicating, Nimmi Chauhan introduces us to Drishti. “40% of married women in India have been beaten or slapped” she says, opening our eyes to plight of millions of women. She goes on to explain how Drishti assisted NGOs fighting such problems by setting up a media campaign including short but high impact videos. The result has been to give many women courage to speak up after seeing the footage of other women who have shared their experiences. As we saw this and several other short clips, we all sat their stunned by our first glimpses of the challenges India is facing. “The camera is our weapon”, courageously speaks one of the NGO volunteers on film.

How much does the Indian television media actually connect with the people of her country? How influential has Bollywood been to highlight the issues? Directors such as Mira Nair or Deepa Mehta have begun to make noise in this highly influential industry, but the question remains as to what extent TV is representative of the wider population.

Nimmi said something that echoed Jayeshbhai’s approach, which was that her work was not charity. It was in fact volunteering – and she stressed the importance of being clear why you want to do any kind of voluntary service.

A peaceful evening meal experience followed by world-class entertainment
On returning to Sugadh for our evening meal, we find a candle-lit room full of conference delegates about to eat a meal in silence, in the belief that it inspires personal reflection, contemplation and gratefulness. Several of us were asked if we would like to volunteer in serving food to them, so a few of us promptly wash our hands a get stuck in. Afterwards, the Learning Journey group all ate in a similar fashion (well, most of us tried to!).

After a few technical hitches, evening entertainment begins as we sit anxiously on chairs outside in the soothing dusk air. A group of youngsters from Manav Sadhna put on a world-class performance of drama, dance and music that has literally travelled the World, promoting the fundamental principles of Manav Sadhna – love and peace towards all of mankind. Jayeshbhai then delivers a touching speech, giving an insight into the extremely talented children who had just performed for us. One boy used to be a shoe cleaner, earning 2 rupees a time, working as hard as possible to pay for medicine for his sick father. Another boy also demonstrated similar love and commitment to his father, collecting batteries to empty acid and reselling. The acid would burn his hands because he would be opening batteries without protection (more stories).

Day 2

The fight against caste discrimination being lead by Navsarjan
Navsarjan (which means “new creation”) works with the Dalit community, or ‘untouchable caste’, with its primary objective to strengthen the non-cooperation movement against the caste-based discrimination in Gujarat. Manjula Pradeep, a Director of Navsarjan, explained some of the immediate issues addressed by her organisation such as violence against Dalits, ensuring primary education, eradication of manual scavenging and implementation of land reforms.

As we sat in one of the school classrooms at the Navsarjan Dalit Shakti Kendra, we became guests of a school assembly, brought to life by a colourful dance by selected children. We were given a chance to interact and ask questions – which ended up with the each child standing up and stating which profession they wanted to join (as you might guess, cricketer and doctor where popular choices!). As we walked around outside, something inside me had been ignited, a feeling of anguish as much as love and compassion being around such transparent children. I thought to myself, what had these children done to deserve anything less than normal self-respect? Had it not been for Navsarjan, they would have also been confined to a life of cleaning up excrement, often with bare hands, and marred by social exclusion and degradation. How is this possible in such a sacred land, gracefully known as “Dharma Bhoomi”, (translates to a place of righteousness) where millions upon millions of human beings are treated in such inhuman ways? The Government of India has apparently set up systems, e.g. the reservation system where by each company must employ a specific percentage of Dalits, Tribals, and ‘other backward castes’ (or OBCs) to combat discrimination since it was officially outlawed in 1950. However, Manjula made us aware of the harsh realities and failures of the government action to resolve the miseries affecting the 160 million Dalits in India.

“I’m a Dalit, How are you?” is an emotional YouTube video created by Navsarjan and Drishti to raise awareness. After watching this, especially the interview of the school girl towards the end, you will momentarily experience the suffering of her people. I ask myself the question, in this emotionally charged state - can I just sit here? Or will I do something about it?


Railway Children providing living example of generosity
After lunch, we headed to Ahmedabad Railway Station to visit Railway Children, an international charity which operates at large railway stations across the World. It has been found that runaway or abandoned children were most vulnerable during the first few days or weeks after leaving home and few NGOs were targeting early intervention when the opportunity for family reunification, protection and developmental opportunities are greatest. We visited an example of one of Railway Children projects, carried out by ASAG (Ahmedabad Study Action Group) which seeks to provide much needed contact and support for children who find themselves alone at the Station.

The overwhelming experience of sitting on the floor, immersed by runaway and abandoned children, in the place they call ‘home’ was surprisingly comfortable to me. As we sat on a plastic sheet put on the floor for us, you begin to notice the different shapes and forms, deformities, and worn out clothes covering these somewhat excited and happy children. One of the children starts to give out ‘paper soap’ to our Group, which he would normal sell at 2 rupees each. “Don’t do that, otherwise how will you make any money”, say’s one of his volunteered carers, to which he responds “no worries – they are our guests for once in a lifetime”. I thought of the Hindu saying “atithi devo bhavah” (Guest is God). Wise words which comes from the same nation where this child, who clearly has few material possessions, is prepared to give all he has as gifts to these momentary visitors. At this moment I discovered that even when one has nothing, he can still give love – something that came in abundance in what appeared to be a nominal gift. I thought about how much abundance we have back home and how relatively ungenerous we are.

Love all, Serve all – Manav Sadhna and Gandhi Ashram
In the afternoon, we arrived at Manav Sadhna, the NGO based at Sabarmati Gandhi Ashram in Ahmedabad (mentioned earlier). ‘Hridayakunj’ is the small cottage on the banks of the Sabarmati River, which became a place of great historic value when Gandhi resided there from 1915 – 1933, bringing with him the Satyagraha movement. We spend some time wondering around the calm, peaceful museum and heritage site – and witnessing where Gandhi once rested, meditated and spun yarn.

Manav Sadhna is located in a school-like building next to the Gandhi Ashram, a proximity which evidently keeps the Gandhian principles upon which Manav Sadhna is modelled very much alive. The organisation is comprised of a young group of dedicated individuals working for the upliftment of poor and needy children. There appears to be an endless influx of foreign volunteers associated with Manav Sadhna and many speak highly of its quality and impact in the local community.

As we walk into the playgrounds, we appear to be sanctified as guests by being offered paper hats and a paper flower to wear around our necks. A drum roll… and before you know it, a Dhol is blasting non-stop beats as an ocean of happy children surrounds us jumping up and down. As someone who is usually first to hit the dance floor at a party, I lead the way and go crazy with the children! The other participants follow when they realise how much fun this was.

As we enter the main building, in traditional Hindu style, a chanlo/tilak is marked on our foreheads and a rakhi (with a doll hanging on it) is tied.

The never-stop-smiling face of Jayeshbhai is momentarily broken as his begins to speak to talk to us about the spirit of Manav Sadhna. “When Head, Heart and Hand are in Harmony, only then shall we experience Peace.” He truly put into practice what he preached demonstrated by the hundreds of joyful children that seem to float around him like a sea of love. “When the ego dies, the soul arises”, he continues, as he speaks of an overflow of compassion when we stop being so self-centred. “Sharing is caring” Jayeshbhai says, in a simple, clear and comical manner and tells us a fables about such principles.

Manav Sadhna is inspired by the Gandhian principles of truth, non-violence, uplifting the poor and oppressed, promoting health and sanitation and to educate the poor masses. After speaking to volunteers and reading the colourful displays on the walls, we realise this is a movement adapting these ideals to the current and complex issues facing not only India, but the world. It became clear how Manav Sadhna wishes to plant the seeds of hope and inspiration among all people, especially those children who have been neglected by society.

"Be like a ladder, not like a leader. If you become a ladder, then everyone develops themselves. And try to love all, serve all” says Jayeshbhai.

Living Service - Global Oneness Project Video about Jayeshbhai and Manav Sadhna.
Jayeshbhai and Anarben: Partners in Services – descriptive blog entry by a visitor to Manav Sadhna.

Day 3

Every Child in School… Pratham, a NGO with courage to think big
At the regional headquaters for Pratham, we meet this charming couple, Harini and Aditya Natraj, who seem to be like the many once city workers and who have now found their ‘true purpose’. As we sit in one of their training rooms, Harini enthusiastically explains how Pratham provides educational opportunities to child labourers, street children and pavement dwellers. The motto of Pratham is ‘Every Child in School and is… Learning Well’. This is the largest NGO we visit; it is massive and now has reach over 21 states with programmes aimed at pre-school education, accelerating reading technique, developing writing skills and basic arithmetic. Harini speaks with empowering vision and explains to us models of sustainability with education. Education must be fun to encourage learning, so Pratham has devised a unique interactive tangible learning approach, and packaged in such a way that it can be made available to distant villages. As a result, in the last 10 years, more than one million children have benefited through Pratham Programmes.

As we drive between Pratham offices and the slum schools (where Pratham is active), I negotiate to ride the motorbike with Pankhaj so that his colleague could take my seat in the jeep – a totally worthwhile trade except for the unanticipated side effect of my hair blow-dried for some time after!

Lunch was in Barista, the air conditioned up-market espresso bar, a welcomed break from the baking heat of the summer sun. I was slightly disappointed to find that the chilli paneer did not taste as good as the stuff back home, but Dharmesh’s birthday cake was delicious… well, what was left available for eating anyway!


SEWA – Self employed women power!
After lunch we visit ‘Shanti Kendra’, a centre run by SEWA (Self Employed Women’s Association). Dharmesh, one of the Journey Leaders, encouraged my to engage with the women (in Gujarati) as we sat down in a thin room face to face with women workers. I was blown away by the passion and energy with which Madinabhen spoke to me – her conviction to the cause was clear. She described vividly how she, a Muslim, and her fellow Hindu sisters would unite to overcome tension in the region. As she described her struggles, you could see the life emanating from this leader of her community. One seriously powerful woman. We take a walk outside to see the women making bidi’s and agarbattis.

In the evening, we visit the central offices of SEWA, one of India’s largest trade union organisations for poor, self employed women workers. After we manage ourselves through numerous women and floors, we finally get to a padded floor room. A PowerPoint presentation is delivered which explains SEWAs main goals – principally to organise women workers for full employment and self reliance. We learn that SEWA is both an organisation and a confluence of three movements – the labour movement, the cooperative movement and the women’s movement.

As the sun sets, we head to Agashiye Restaurant for a roof-top terrace banquet with guests from Manav Sadhna and Indicorps.

Day 4

Heritage Walk to discover the old city
We discover the historical city of Ahmedabad with a Heritage Walk. The walk began from the picturesque Swaminarayan Mandir in Kalupur and ended in the glorious architectural legacy of the Jumma Masjid, covering in between the numerous pols, havelis, ornamental facades, workplaces of artisans and number of magnificent Hindu and Jain temples.

Slum tour: Stepping into the lives of slum dwellers – literally
This was perhaps the single most powerful parts of the Learning Journey. We immersed ourselves into a slum tour (Ramapir no Tekro), which took around 3 hours and probably changed the lives and perceptions of everyone who went on it.

After walking for 20 minutes, we eventually reached the actual thick of the slum (which most of us though began 20 minutes ago!). We were surrounded by small shacks and crowded spaces. As we continued to walk, we crossed over one of the sewers pouring into a stream. After carefully crossing the bridge, we came across piles of rubbish – and the rag-picking children, trying to find select pieces they can sell on for money. This was Gujarat’s largest slum and rag-picking was big business, which usually involved lower caste or dalit women and children separating trash into piles of plastic, paper and other materials to sell on to recycling barons (“middlemen”). I roam ahead and see some boys picking trash, next to which hungry cows and dogs are looking for scrapings. The stench of urine from the open toilets is overwhelming in the blistering heat as I gulp, realising that this is how they make their living.

As we progressed, Jayeshbhai, who was guiding us, seemed to know everyone single one of the 150,000 residents of the slum. He introduces us to one of the Manav Sadhna families and we take the opportunity to go inside their home. They have a small TV, a mirror on a shelf and pictures of Bollywood superstars on the walls – iconic of the dreams and transformation they are seeking?

We keep walking through until we come across many a new construction – a building that seems so clean, so strong and standing so proud in the midst of poverty. A place of hope and strength – this is the new Community Centre. An amazing building, built completely out of recycled materials and incorporating all faiths into its architecture. The complex has a large circular space in the middle, several classrooms and computer suites. We discover that this building has been a central focus for many of the slum dwellers, for it provided something solid and robust, a sense of family and unity they could rely on.

I see a dog in the corner, she is a mother and her body is withered showing her bones. Underneath, are two puppies trying to feed – analogous, I thought, to the situation of most mothers in the slum.

I think we all walked away incredibly humbled – with a renewed sense of gratefulness for what we have been blessed with.


Sewa Café – living is giving
Volunteer Anjali Desai explains the vision behind Seva Cafe, a pay-it-forward restaurant in Ahmedabad, where each patron makes a donation toward the next person's meal. Devoted to the principle of "think globally, act locally," Anjali describes how this communal experiment in giving reminds us that every individual act of goodwill resounds in the collective human consciousness. (Watch the YouTube Video, also YouTube Video 2)

We head back to Sugadh to collect our bags and make our way to the bustling Ahmedabad Railway Station – to board the 7 hour sleeper train to Bhuj, in the northern Gujarat district of Kutch. Our friends from Railway Children manage to come and find us as we share another cup of chai, engaging in more testing Gujarati conversations. The stations is nothing like Euston or New Street… it appears even more crowded but with an added layer of dust and character. The station is a mini-ecosystem with its range of stores and food outlets to inhabitant ‘koolies’ (porters) and homeless people. It is here I realised where our parents get the incessant need to over pack – I’ve never seen so much luggage per person at a station!

On the way Bhuj, some lucky participants have the opportunity to sleep in the non-AC carriage – Amal being one of them, recollects it being a ‘good experience’, with the full range of sights, smells, and sounds!